Guides to India's hill towns
Thoughtful local notes for slow weekends, good meals, and knowing what is actually worth leaving the house for.
By train to McLeodganj and Dharamshala
The nearest railway station to McLeodganj and Dharamshala is Pathankot, about 90 km and 3–4 hours by road. Which trains, which of Pathankot's two stations, and how to do the last 90 km without losing the day.
McLeodganj to Dharamkot: the last 2 km
Dharamkot is 2 km above McLeodganj: a 20–45 minute walk uphill, or 10–15 minutes and about ₹150 by taxi. The road ends before the village does, and that is the part worth knowing before you arrive.
How to reach Bir, Himachal Pradesh
Getting to Bir is straightforward. Knowing where to get off is the part that trips people up — "Bir Road" is a highway junction, not the town, and the place you actually want is Chaugan.
How to reach Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh
Dharamshala is the transport hub of the Dhauladhar corridor — the closest town to Kangra Airport and where the long-distance buses terminate. Here is every way in, and which one is worth your money.
How to reach McLeodganj, Himachal Pradesh
McLeodganj sits 6 km above Dharamshala on the Dhauladhar slope. Almost every route in passes through Dharamshala first — except the overnight buses from Delhi, which come all the way up.
How to reach Dharamkot, Himachal Pradesh
There is no direct way to Dharamkot. You get to McLeodganj first, then cover the last 2 km on foot or by taxi — and the road gives out before the village does.